Aging / feeding help 🐿️ Grey / Black baby squirrel

[Cap70]

Hey everyone!

I just rescued an orphan baby squirrel from a very rural area and can’t figure out what age she is! (Will post a picture if possible here)

After reading the forums here and other places like Reddit I initially thought she was atleast 5 weeks old.

Here are some details:

Female - was without mother for 3 days.
Weight when found - 78.2 Grams
Had her for 6 days now

- No visual injuries, squirrel seems healthy!
- Had lice but got rid of it/no other bugs appearing on or around her
- Eyes wide open
- Already going to the bathroom both 1 & 2 by herself (for the most part/I still am able to get her to go with tickling her belly) pees atleast once each time I wake her / tickle the belly and poops usually twice in 24 hours, poops started dark and small and have since gotten lighter and a bit bigger.
- already snacks on solid food and so I have introduced blocks which she mainly just shreds apart (am giving estobalic every 4-5 hours at 1:2.5 now 4-5 times a day/the person who found her fed her a few nuts not knowing, but she will also eat veggies and tiny tiny apple bits as a treat)
- Tail already curling up (depending how awake she is)
- Sleeps a lot but when let out to run around is full of energy, and fast as heck!
- after rehydrating and feeding the second day was up to 86.9 grams after final dose of pedialite and first few ccs of the milk but since seems to be losing weight and is back down to around 79/80grams.
- gradually worked up to 4cc and even tried 6% of her body weight today, got a bigger poop but was 77 grams today after 4 feedings/sleeping today


I’m always worried to over feed her but after seeing everyone else posting their squirrel friends weight gains each day I’m concerned I might be doing something slightly wrong. I’m looking to get her to a rehab centre although there aren’t many around, never mind that take squirrels/that can’t feed themselves.


This is the 5th baby animal I have helped with temporary rehab but first squirrel! (baby raccoons before) squirrels seem a bit more difficult I’ll admit, but def not as loud!

Any help in identifying the weight gain issue and age is greatly appreciated!

Thank you squirrel gang!

[Cap70]

[Cap70]

Incase the pictures didn’t work

https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?c...Yrg7BdMhgjrPfV

https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?c...GVlVq15X1d11cV

https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?c...ssGwTpWQjd0lsy

[SamtheSquirrel2018]

Hey everyone!

I just rescued an orphan baby squirrel from a very rural area and can’t figure out what age she is! (Will post a picture if possible here)

After reading the forums here and other places like Reddit I initially thought she was atleast 5 weeks old.

Here are some details:

Female - was without mother for 3 days.
Weight when found - 78.2 Grams
Had her for 6 days now

- No visual injuries, squirrel seems healthy!
- Had lice but got rid of it/no other bugs appearing on or around her
- Eyes wide open
- Already going to the bathroom both 1 & 2 by herself (for the most part/I still am able to get her to go with tickling her belly) pees atleast once each time I wake her / tickle the belly and poops usually twice in 24 hours, poops started dark and small and have since gotten lighter and a bit bigger.
- already snacks on solid food and so I have introduced blocks which she mainly just shreds apart (am giving estobalic every 4-5 hours at 1:2.5 now 4-5 times a day/the person who found her fed her a few nuts not knowing, but she will also eat veggies and tiny tiny apple bits as a treat)
- Tail already curling up (depending how awake she is)
- Sleeps a lot but when let out to run around is full of energy, and fast as heck!
- after rehydrating and feeding the second day was up to 86.9 grams after final dose of pedialite and first few ccs of the milk but since seems to be losing weight and is back down to around 79/80grams.
- gradually worked up to 4cc and even tried 6% of her body weight today, got a bigger poop but was 77 grams today after 4 feedings/sleeping today


I’m always worried to over feed her but after seeing everyone else posting their squirrel friends weight gains each day I’m concerned I might be doing something slightly wrong. I’m looking to get her to a rehab centre although there aren’t many around, never mind that take squirrels/that can’t feed themselves.


This is the 5th baby animal I have helped with temporary rehab but first squirrel! (baby raccoons before) squirrels seem a bit more difficult I’ll admit, but def not as loud!

Any help in identifying the weight gain issue and age is greatly appreciated!

Thank you squirrel gang!

Hi Cap70 and thank you for finding The Squirrel Board. I apologize for you not yet receiving a response to your post about your little Squirrel! From you profile, it appears that you live on Turtle Island! So do I! If you could be a bit more specific it may help with the advice your receive because while most of us live in the USA and there, our sources for nutritional support and supplies are well know and this "stuff" is relatively easy to obtain! When you spelled Rehab Center as Centre, it suggest maybe a UK location which makes some of the "usual" material more difficult to procure! Are you planning to take your Squirrel to a Rehabber or are you going to raise her yourself? What is the name of your baby Squirrel?

First off, eyes open around 5 weeks so your Squirrel and with your Squirrel still sleeping a significant period of time and tail just curling, she is probably around 6 weeks. This is also when the upper incisors are noticed "coming in."

Next, no more Pedialyte, please. This is an Electrolyte (sodium, chloride, etc) containing fluid and while it does have it's place, ordinarily it is not only not needed but can be dangerous especially if used the sole source of hydration or for any extended period! An animal has varying degrees of fluid losses occurring throughout the day and except for special cases such as diarrhea as an example; the fluid losses occur with little loss of electrolytes so when we give Pedialyte or any of the other Electrolyte containing solutions, the tendency is for the electrolyte concentration in the body to increase and this is potentially very dangerous. Pedialyte surprisingly replenishes very little plain water and it is plain water that is not accompanied by electrolytes and that your Squirrel really needs! Now that her eyes are open she should have a regular source of plain, clean, pure water available at all times. A high quality water bottle is ideal! Also, and primarily, your Squirrel will obtain needed water from her formula!

What form of Esbilac are you using? This should be Esbilac POWDERED Puppy Milk Replacer and NOT the liquid! It should be mixed up with ONLY plain water in a ratio of 2 parts warm water and 1 part Esbilac and mixed thoroughly by hand but do not use mechanical blending such as an electric blender! In reality, however, it is time for your Squirrel to transition to Fox Valley 20/50. This should be continued until the Squirrel weans herself definitively! Another option when you get the FV 20/50 is to "partially" transition to this and when the transition process reaches half Esbilac and half FV 20/50, you can continue to use both. It's a little more involved to do this but a number of us do use these two formulars in 50:50 combination through weaning.

What form of Blocks are you using. The "usual" Squirrel food bought in a pet store or feed store are NOT healthy and are NOT designed for providing optimal nutritional support for any captive Squirrels! The ideal Blocks would be Henry's Healthy Blocks, Teklad 2018, Mazuri Rat & Mouse Diet or Oxbow Regal Rat Food as good examples.

It is probably time to have a larger cage as well. Use Fleece or Flannel bedding as towels and similar cloths have large loops and a Squirrel can easilt get a claw hooked in this or have a loop wrap around a toe and stop blood flow in the toe!

Here is a link to the excellent, well written and concise Baby Squirrel Care Guidelines from Henrys. The major exceptions to this advice is do NOT use the FV 32/40 (too old now anyway) and do NOT opt for a Goats Milk based formula (also too old now anyway)! There are 6 pages to read. Please read it all; https://www.henryspets.com/1-baby-squirrel-care-guide/

This gives feeding frequencies and mentions the 5% to 7% "rule" for feeding. Here is a weight based chart for quickly determining the amount of formula to feed with each feeding based upon a DAILY weight that should be obtained with a digital scale first thing in the morning before the first feeding! Squirrel Board Feeding Cheat Sheet.doc

Please keep on with the updates!
Regards,
SamtheSquirrel

[Cap70]

Hi Cap70 and thank you for finding The Squirrel Board. I apologize for you not yet receiving a response to your post about your little Squirrel! From you profile, it appears that you live on Turtle Island! So do I! If you could be a bit more specific it may help with the advice your receive because while most of us live in the USA and there, our sources for nutritional support and supplies are well know and this "stuff" is relatively easy to obtain! When you spelled Rehab Center as Centre, it suggest maybe a UK location which makes some of the "usual" material more difficult to procure! Are you planning to take your Squirrel to a Rehabber or are you going to raise her yourself? What is the name of your baby Squirrel?

First off, eyes open around 5 weeks so your Squirrel and with your Squirrel still sleeping a significant period of time and tail just curling, she is probably around 6 weeks. This is also when the upper incisors are noticed "coming in."

Next, no more Pedialyte, please. This is an Electrolyte (sodium, chloride, etc) containing fluid and while it does have it's place, ordinarily it is not only not needed but can be dangerous especially if used the sole source of hydration or for any extended period! An animal has varying degrees of fluid losses occurring throughout the day and except for special cases such as diarrhea as an example; the fluid losses occur with little loss of electrolytes so when we give Pedialyte or any of the other Electrolyte containing solutions, the tendency is for the electrolyte concentration in the body to increase and this is potentially very dangerous. Pedialyte surprisingly replenishes very little plain water and it is plain water that is not accompanied by electrolytes and that your Squirrel really needs! Now that her eyes are open she should have a regular source of plain, clean, pure water available at all times. A high quality water bottle is ideal! Also, and primarily, your Squirrel will obtain needed water from her formula!

What form of Esbilac are you using? This should be Esbilac POWDERED Puppy Milk Replacer and NOT the liquid! It should be mixed up with ONLY plain water in a ratio of 2 parts warm water and 1 part Esbilac and mixed thoroughly by hand but do not use mechanical blending such as an electric blender! In reality, however, it is time for your Squirrel to transition to Fox Valley 20/50. This should be continued until the Squirrel weans herself definitively! Another option when you get the FV 20/50 is to "partially" transition to this and when the transition process reaches half Esbilac and half FV 20/50, you can continue to use both. It's a little more involved to do this but a number of us do use these two formulars in 50:50 combination through weaning.

What form of Blocks are you using. The "usual" Squirrel food bought in a pet store or feed store are NOT healthy and are NOT designed for providing optimal nutritional support for any captive Squirrels! The ideal Blocks would be Henry's Healthy Blocks, Teklad 2018, Mazuri Rat & Mouse Diet or Oxbow Regal Rat Food as good examples.

It is probably time to have a larger cage as well. Use Fleece or Flannel bedding as towels and similar cloths have large loops and a Squirrel can easilt get a claw hooked in this or have a loop wrap around a toe and stop blood flow in the toe!

Here is a link to the excellent, well written and concise Baby Squirrel Care Guidelines from Henrys. The major exceptions to this advice is do NOT use the FV 32/40 (too old now anyway) and do NOT opt for a Goats Milk based formula (also too old now anyway)! There are 6 pages to read. Please read it all; https://www.henryspets.com/1-baby-squirrel-care-guide/

This gives feeding frequencies and mentions the 5% to 7% "rule" for feeding. Here is a weight based chart for quickly determining the amount of formula to feed with each feeding based upon a DAILY weight that should be obtained with a digital scale first thing in the morning before the first feeding! Squirrel Board Feeding Cheat Sheet.doc

Please keep on with the updates!
Regards,
SamtheSquirrel

Hello Sam,

Thank you for your reply and advice!

To answer your questions:

I am located in Ontario in a rural area near Penetanguishene.

The rehydration with pedialite was only done for the first day 15 minutes between feedings until the baby was hydrated and has since stopped.

The food is the stage 1 puppy powder and I started by mixing it 1 park powder to 3 parts water and worked to 1 part powder to 2 and and extra tiny splash of water presently.

The squirrel doesn’t have an official name, initially thought it was a boy and was referring to her as “el trapo” (roughly translating to “the duster” as her tail is poofing out more every day!)

Delivery is very limited where I am and after reading a few forums for alternatives of blocks for people in similar situation they suggested one called “Kaytee Fortidiet health pro”. She has only had two so far and doesn’t seem to really eat them right now but is shredding them up and eating little bits/seems to like them.

I currently feed 4-5 hours 4-5 times a day at 5-6% body weight as I’m not sure her exact age, but yes she does have little top teeth and bottom ones also. I’m scared to over feed her but her weight is so low compared to other peoples squirrel friends they post here at younger ages.

My goal is to raise her until she can eat by herself, she is a wild animal in need and not a pet in my eyes (as adorable and loving as she is!) I have never done a release before so I would feel much more comfortable bringing her to someone with more experience for this stage.

Any further advice and assistance is greatly appreciated and I’m grateful for you taking the time to assist me today, Sam.

[CritterMom]

Go to full strength formula. If you feel she needs additional hydration, give some plain water or water with a dash of sugar or honey IN BETWEEN feedings.

Heat the formula warmer, Logic says it should be at approx the body temp of an adult squirrel. Baby squirrel doesn't care what "logic" says, they like it warmer.

If you put some very warm water in a mug so that if you drop a syringe tip down in it, the water comes up to just below where the plunger goes into the barrel. If you have 2 syringes, load both, keep one tip down in the hot water, when halfway through the first one, drop it tip down in the water and stick the 2nd warmed syringe in her mouth, and so on. Heating it more can eliminate a lot of feeding fussiness, and may allow you to get her to eat more formula at each sitting. A proper baby squirrel tummy right after feeding, if you old her under the armpits and let her back half hang while facing you, like a half filled water balloon - teardrop shaped and soft and squishy like a water balloon. Try shooting for 7% of her weight.

You can boost the Esbilac formula to add some fat to it using heavy cream/heavy whipping cream - the stuff in the little carton that you make real whipping cream with. There is heavy cream, whipping cream, heavy whipping cream...with no apparent rhyme or reason as to the different names. Look on the back and buy the one that has the highest amount of milk fat.

You will eventually wind up at 1 part Esbilac powder, 2 parts water and 1 part cream, but don't start there. You need to slowly ease them into diet changes. On Day 1 I would add 1/4 part cream; Day 2, 1/2 part cream; Day 3 add 3/4 part cream; and Day 4 you will be up to 1 full part cream. If at any point you see loose poops, back off on the cream amount.

[SamtheSquirrel2018]

Thanks for your response Cap70 and thank you for your love and care for this little Squirrel! Thank you CritterMom your response! Cap70, please try to follow the recommendations for care and "housing" of your Squirrel as per Henry's Guidelines and also please avail yourself of the wealth of information (much of it based upon EXPERIENCE!) here on TSB! As far as the Kaytee products, my usual advice and that of others on TSB is to avoid using this BUT this is based not on us using it and finding it flawed but actually on out NOT having used it and instead using one or more of the other options for Blocks that I mentioned in my post! Here in the US, we fortunately do have many options so it makes sense to use a product (or products) for which there are experiential databases supporting their use. I look at Kaytee Forti-Diet Pro Health Pet Mouse, Rat, and Hamster Food (if that is what you are using) on Amazon and found that it reportedly contains at least 20% crude protein which is good for a young Squirrel! Fats are a little less than Teklad 2018 and the rest of the ingredients are listed but percentages are not available. IMHO, however, I suspect that the Kaytee Blocks will suffice and provide adequate nutrition!

Please let your Squirrel determine when she is weaned and continue to let her have formula as long as she desires! The Kaytee Blocks can be free-fed (can give as much as your Squirrel wants). It is expected that early on in a baby Squirrels getting used to solid foods (which should comprise at least 80% of her non-formula diet!); they will shred most of this and play with it rather than consume it. Do NOT offer any other solid food except the Blocks until you know that your Squirrel is actually consuming the Blocks! Later, you can offer other food but you can stick with the Blocks and Formular until weaning is accomplished and the Squirrel is in the Release Cage at the start of the Soft-Release Program. You can get an idea as to what other food you might consider from Henry's Healthy Diet Pyramid. The lower wide base of the Pyramid is Blocks and as you go up the Pyramid to the tip, the food option DECREASE in nutritional value until you come to the Treats which surprisingly to most, include nuts! Give only very rare Treats or even none at all! Here is a link to the Pyramid; https://henryspets.com/healthy-diet-for-pet-squirrels/

Also, I'm sure you have seen this in your readings; but just in case, NO "raised" baby Squirrel should ever be "Hard Released!" A baby Squirrel must be placed in a satisfactory release cage and a program for a Soft-Release provided for the Squirrel during which she will "wild-up" as her relatively dormant natural instincts are permitted to become active!

Please also check for food stashes DAILY and be very thorough in your searches! Non-consumed food should be removed from the cage every day!

Regards,
SamtheSquirrel

[Cap70]

Go to full strength formula. If you feel she needs additional hydration, give some plain water or water with a dash of sugar or honey IN BETWEEN feedings.

Heat the formula warmer, Logic says it should be at approx the body temp of an adult squirrel. Baby squirrel doesn't care what "logic" says, they like it warmer.

If you put some very warm water in a mug so that if you drop a syringe tip down in it, the water comes up to just below where the plunger goes into the barrel. If you have 2 syringes, load both, keep one tip down in the hot water, when halfway through the first one, drop it tip down in the water and stick the 2nd warmed syringe in her mouth, and so on. Heating it more can eliminate a lot of feeding fussiness, and may allow you to get her to eat more formula at each sitting. A proper baby squirrel tummy right after feeding, if you old her under the armpits and let her back half hang while facing you, like a half filled water balloon - teardrop shaped and soft and squishy like a water balloon. Try shooting for 7% of her weight.

You can boost the Esbilac formula to add some fat to it using heavy cream/heavy whipping cream - the stuff in the little carton that you make real whipping cream with. There is heavy cream, whipping cream, heavy whipping cream...with no apparent rhyme or reason as to the different names. Look on the back and buy the one that has the highest amount of milk fat.

You will eventually wind up at 1 part Esbilac powder, 2 parts water and 1 part cream, but don't start there. You need to slowly ease them into diet changes. On Day 1 I would add 1/4 part cream; Day 2, 1/2 part cream; Day 3 add 3/4 part cream; and Day 4 you will be up to 1 full part cream. If at any point you see loose poops, back off on the cream amount.

Awesome! Yes I have been doing all of this besides the full strength formula/cream, and I did the honey water once a few days ago although she pees very clear and with no issues. Skin on her tummy is a little wrinkly when she’s squished up but when pinching her back skin it instantly goes back down.

She is very bony though and doesn’t have much meat on her. I have no problem feeding her, she loves to eat! I just don’t know when to stop as she will keep going. I have been trying to stick to the 5% body weight although have worked up to 6%.

Just woke her up and weighed her before a pee and she is at 78.5 up from 76.1 this morning which is the lightest she’s been yet. (Heaviest was second day we had her at 86.9 after doing the hydration and starting formula.)

If I do give her some honey water between feedings how much should it be?

As she is also 6 weeks should I be feeding her less frequently? I’ve been aiming for every 4 hours 4-5 times a day.

Eg.

12pm
4pm
8pm
12am
5am

Is the 5am to 12pm stretch perhaps too far?

Thank you again and appreciate your help!

[Cap70]

Also, everyone seems to say it is normal she is always sleeping. When I remove her from heat pad she is very active, but any opportunity she has to be near it she just goes and instantly falls asleep until I wake her for her next meal.

I tried removing the heat pad in little few minute intervals and this gets her active and running around the cage but she ultimately just ends up crying so I have to pick her up and play with her for a bit. When I put her back if the heat pad is there she will go back to it and sleep, if not repeat circling the cage and eventually cry. When out of the cage she runs around like crazy and likes to climb on me/ very fast and active!

[SamtheSquirrel2018]

Also, everyone seems to say it is normal she is always sleeping. When I remove her from heat pad she is very active, but any opportunity she has to be near it she just goes and instantly falls asleep until I wake her for her next meal.

I tried removing the heat pad in little few minute intervals and this gets her active and running around the cage but she ultimately just ends up crying so I have to pick her up and play with her for a bit. When I put her back if the heat pad is there she will go back to it and sleep, if not repeat circling the cage and eventually cry. When out of the cage she runs around like crazy and likes to climb on me/ very fast and active!

Yes, Cap70; she is a young Squirrel and it is still normal for her to sleep much of the time! I feel the same way about the heating pad as I do about weaning (and many of us here do as well) and that is that the heating pad will be given up when the Squirrel is ready for that to happen. The heating pad and you provide what would have been this Squirrels "Mothering" and one of those functions is warmth and security. I didn't mention this but the heating pad should never be inside the cage or where the Squirrel can get to it! A assume that your Squirrel is in a plastic bin such as those recommended by Henry's. The heating pad goes BELOW the bottom of this bin, NOT inside it! My suggestion would be to keep the heating pad on Low and put it under only 1/2 of the cage bottom and provide fleece or flannel bedding available on both the heated portion and the unheated portion. Eventually, your Squirrel will opt off the heated section and you can definitively remove it. Your Squirrel is young and her eye only recently opened and she just now gaining the ability to fully regulate her internal temperature. Please give her more time to divest herself of the extra heat!
Regards,
SamtheSquirrel

[CritterMom]

You mean Midnight to 5AM, right? That is fine. Keep her on this schedule until she catches her weight up. If you begin feeding her more and perhaps boosting the formula with the cream, that should happen fairly quickly. Do my "water balloon" test, too.

If she is not showing signs of dehydration, she doesn't need any water. They have zero access to water until the day they leave the nest for the first time at 9ish weeks old.

And I second STS on the heat issue and on the fact that now her role in life is to eat, pee, poop, sleep, repeat.

[Cap70]

You mean Midnight to 5AM, right? That is fine. Keep her on this schedule until she catches her weight up. If you begin feeding her more and perhaps boosting the formula with the cream, that should happen fairly quickly. Do my "water balloon" test, too.

If she is not showing signs of dehydration, she doesn't need any water. They have zero access to water until the day they leave the nest for the first time at 9ish weeks old.

And I second STS on the heat issue and on the fact that now her role in life is to eat, pee, poop, sleep, repeat.

My apologies, I was more referring to the morning period as this is when I’m getting some sleep. I give her her last feeding at 430-5am and then her next one when I wake up around 12pm. Before I sleep I do leave a block in there for her but she usually doesn’t wake up and notice it until I wake her up!

[Cap70]

Just an update!

Giving her the full strength formula and close to 7% body weight made a huge difference, but since the blocks she doesn’t seem as interested in the milk!

She was already fast and seemed strong but now seems like she’s got super speed and grip! I want to continue these gains with her!

She is also now approaching 90 grams. Woo!

She did have a very plentiful bowel movement though where she passed 8 poops within a few minutes after being stimulated to pee! Is this normal for one “bathroom break”?

Lastly, now that I’m giving her the blocks and she is taking less milk, is this going to be okay to keep her gaining weight? I’m seeing a lot of contradicting posts about how many blocks a day / what else should be used for a diet. Since having the blocks she really doesn’t seem interested in veggies anymore either.

I’ve also added water to her home and should I be monitoring how much she drinks also?

Thanks!

[SamtheSquirrel2018]

Just an update!

Giving her the full strength formula and close to 7% body weight made a huge difference, but since the blocks she doesn’t seem as interested in the milk!

She was already fast and seemed strong but now seems like she’s got super speed and grip! I want to continue these gains with her!

She is also now approaching 90 grams. Woo!

She did have a very plentiful bowel movement though where she passed 8 poops within a few minutes after being stimulated to pee! Is this normal for one “bathroom break”?

Lastly, now that I’m giving her the blocks and she is taking less milk, is this going to be okay to keep her gaining weight? I’m seeing a lot of contradicting posts about how many blocks a day / what else should be used for a diet. Since having the blocks she really doesn’t seem interested in veggies anymore either.

I’ve also added water to her home and should I be monitoring how much she drinks also?

Thanks!

Hi Cap70:
In no way is your little Squirrel even close to being weaned! Please keep on with the formula according to the appropriate schedule and calculated amount to be offered, BUT, this will need to be adjusted periodically as far as both frequency of the formula feedings and the amount of each feeding. When Ms. Baby Squirrel eats the blocks she is obviously getting additional nutrition and she quite expectedly may decrease her intake of formula but please continue to offer the formula. A full wean is not to be expected for 8-10 more weeks (and maybe even later)!

Again, I have no experience with Kaytee Blocks (hopefully, other here are or have used it and may be able to offer comments and outcomes data from having used it!) but on the likely assumption that these particular Blocks will, indeed, provide full nutritional support for you Squirrel as they are manufactured purportedly to provide for other closely related rodents, the Block should be the major source of nutrition along with Formula and in fact, the Blocks should comprise at least 80% of the Squirrel's diet (other than formula through weaning and to the beginning the the Soft-Release Program. Here is a link to Henry's Healthy Food Pyramid where the most healthy foods (Blocks) are toward the wide base of the Pyramid and the treats and least healthy food (nuts! fruits and similar) are at the top of the Pyramid. Dietary components change as the Soft-Release process begins and the Squirrel is placed in the Release Cage to "wild-up." https://henryspets.com/healthy-diet-for-pet-squirrels/

Increasing the size of the cage is important with increasing activity and age and you are certainly doing the right thing by providing extra water. By the way, how are you doing this? Are you using a water bottle or a shallow pan of water. If using a shallow pan or bowl of water you can place some clean pebbles in the bottom of the water pan to help keep your Squirrel from "nosing" in too deep and potentially aspirating and the pebbles will also help keep the pan from tipping over. Water should be changed daily using clean fresh water or bottled water. A water bottle must be checked for proper operation at least daily as if it ceases to work or its operation is defective; your Squirrel can easily become dehydrated!

Have you talked with any facilities about their participation in the release process? Remember, NO baby Squirrel should ever simply be left in in the wild for release. This will always cause fear will always result in death of the baby from predators, exposure, dehydration (you name it!)! A Baby Squirrel MUST go through a proper Soft-Release Program in a specially designed release cage outdoors but safe to allow her natural instincts to become active. These include among others; self protection, food and water location and arranging a safe home. If your Squirrel is destined for release, any facility MUST be experienced with Squirrels and the Soft-Release Process!

Regards,
SamtheSquirrel

[SamtheSquirrel2018]

Hello again Cap70:
I realized that I did not fully answer your question regarding the number of Blocks that can be consumed by your Squirrel on a daily basis. You mentioned some controversy but there is really NO controversy to this; just a different approach when one particular form of Blocks, namely Henry's Healthy Blocks (HHBs), are used instead of the other quality Blocks. HHBs are concentrated and for the average size Squirrel (your Squirrel is not there yet!); the full consumption of only two blocks will provide all of the daily needed nutrition, vitamins and minerals! A maximum of three HHBs should be the limit for most all Squirrels. Two of these Blocks weighs on 10 Grams and three would, of course, be 15 grams and this is not enough for a Squirrel to become "full!" So; other sources of nutrition are essential and this can be other quality blocks and/or components of the Pyramid (the lower levels only with very rare if any exceptions!).

Other than HHBs, the other quality Blocks (Teklad, Mazuri Rat and Mouse Diet, Oxbow Regal Rat and I'll add Kaytee to this this as you are using it but, again, our experiential database for use of this with Squirrels is lacking!), can be Free-fed which means that you can let your Squirrel eat as much as she wants! Please check thoroughly for stashes every day! HHBs spoil rapidly and even the other hard, extruded Blocks have the potential to spoil. Also, you do not want your Squirrel to preferentially use a stash as she should be consuming only the freshest, new with each day, foods!

Regards,
SamtheSquirrel

[Cap70]

Hello again Cap70:
I realized that I did not fully answer your question regarding the number of Blocks that can be consumed by your Squirrel on a daily basis. You mentioned some controversy but there is really NO controversy to this; just a different approach when one particular form of Blocks, namely Henry's Healthy Blocks (HHBs), are used instead of the other quality Blocks. HHBs are concentrated and for the average size Squirrel (your Squirrel is not there yet!); the full consumption of only two blocks will provide all of the daily needed nutrition, vitamins and minerals! A maximum of three HHBs should be the limit for most all Squirrels. Two of these Blocks weighs on 10 Grams and three would, of course, be 15 grams and this is not enough for a Squirrel to become "full!" So; other sources of nutrition are essential and this can be other quality blocks and/or components of the Pyramid (the lower levels only with very rare if any exceptions!).

Other than HHBs, the other quality Blocks (Teklad, Mazuri Rat and Mouse Diet, Oxbow Regal Rat and I'll add Kaytee to this this as you are using it but, again, our experiential database for use of this with Squirrels is lacking!), can be Free-fed which means that you can let your Squirrel eat as much as she wants! Please check thoroughly for stashes every day! HHBs spoil rapidly and even the other hard, extruded Blocks have the potential to spoil. Also, you do not want your Squirrel to preferentially use a stash as she should be consuming only the freshest, new with each day, foods!

Regards,
SamtheSquirrel

Thank you Sam!

I also just made another post about a small scab the squirrel just pulled off her head. I’m not sure if you are able to help identify the issue but I posted a picture in non life threatening.