View Full Version : sick Muskovee
NaturesGift
09-22-2007, 07:42 PM
My skuvie duck is sick. I know there are alot of ppl on here that rehab ducks. so I figures I would have a shot at getting help. If not I know you will be here to hold my hand.
Ferdinand AKA Sweetie my black skovie. was fine about an hour ago waddling around the lawn following all the other ducks around causing trouble teasing the chickens and begging for duck food.
Well we sat down for supper and I finished and came out and sat on the TSB.. and my mom went outside by the fire and she came in and got me b/c Sweetie couldnt walk. I went out and she tries to walk.. gets up and stands.. then goes to walk and falls in an almost swim like walk..and her feet lay out behind her.
I felt her down. she has an egg ready to be laid. Is it possible she is egg bound? I have her in a storage tote with some water in a cool quiet place.
She is my all time favorite duck. It seems all the ducks wild up even the ones I hatched myself. After a couple days in the pond they only love me for food. But Sweetie has always loved ot walk up and be petted and she loves to eat out of everyones hands. .. I have even found her on the top of the steps in front of the sliding door in my parents room staring inside. I could cry. I hope its just egg bound. Im going to try to find a cure for that. .. *waiting for an egg*
thundersquirrel
09-22-2007, 08:03 PM
oh i'm so sorry to hear that! poor duckie!
i can't help you with the technicalities, but i really hope it's just the egg. has she shown any other symptoms? can you take her in for the night?
here's hope for you both. :Love_Icon
Mrs. Jack
09-22-2007, 08:04 PM
this is chickens, but some info
EGG BINDING is a serious disorder that most commonly affects a young hen when laying her first egg, but can affect any hen at any time.
Some cases are so severe that the only possible solution is surgical, and can result in a complete hysterectomy. This would require the assistance of a qualified Veterinarian and must be done under a general anesthetic. But I'd like to discuss the cases that would be considered mild to moderate, where the brave and curious Fancier is interested in trying to help out their hen.
The first thing I highly recommend (although I realize not always practical), is to obtain an x-ray of the bird's abdomen. This is a valuable tool in confirming that you truly have an egg bound problem. Swollen and distended abdomens can be symptomatic of other more serious disorders. If the x-ray shows a distinctly formed and calcified egg, then you have a certain course of action. If the x-ray shows no distinct egg formation, then you can be dealing with a shell-less egg and that can get complicated. You may even be dealing with an internal layer. However, if the hen's internal structures are fuzzy and indistinct, you could also be dealing with an abdomen that is filled with fluid. In this case, you'd be dealing with a completely different problem.
A fluid-filled abdomen could be a sign of peritonitis - egg related or otherwise. Whether caused by egg material never passed or not, a good course of action is to immediately put the hen on a good broad-spectrum antibiotic, such as Baytril. (Good SUPPORTIVE THERAPY should be included in any treatment program - May issue.) If the condition does not improve through the course of treatment, then a local Veterinarian should be consulted for possible fluid removal and to determine the next course of action.
If the x-ray confirms the presence of a calcified egg (egg with a shell), and the hen is not in any serious distress, then you can follow a conservative and simple medical and supportive approach.
Begin by making sure the hen has adequate protein, calcium, selenium, and vitamins A and E, since dietary insufficiencies can be a cause of egg binding. A preventative course of antibiotics is good too, but make sure you add a good probiotic during and after treatment.
Be sure the hen has plenty of fresh water to drink (hand water if necessary), and lubricate the cloaca (vent). Use a water based lubricant such as K-Y Jelly. This should be applied at regular intervals. Attempt to get some just inside the cloaca - but be cautious not to cause a tear in delicate tissues. If you can see the tip of the egg through the cloaca, even better - lubricate it too. An additional step that can be taken is to attach a heat-softened piece of small tubing to a 3 cc syringe and inject warmed KY or warm soapy water (mixed with sterile water) via the tube up past and around the egg.
A warm, moist environment is helpful. If you have a duck, you can begin by offering her a very warm bath. (Bantams fit nicely in the kitchen sink - much to the dismay of my spouse.) If you can find a small screen to lay over the top and put something heavy on the edges to secure it, then you can walk away and let the girl float about for awhile. If you have a hen, then you'll have to support her so that the bottom half of her body is submersed for about fifteen minutes. As long as the bird seems fine otherwise, I would just repeat this at regular intervals, and give Mother Nature a chance to work.
If you can palpate the egg to determine that it's close to delivery, and your bird seems to be having a hard time, you can go beyond the warm water baths and put her into an incubator. Set the temperature between 85-90 degrees with high humidity or place wet towels inside the incubator. Make sure the bird has a fresh airflow. Most incubators have a good intake and exhaust system for fresh air - but make sure the air holes are open so that you don't suffocate your bird. Don't leave her in there more than a few hours. And keep an eye on her condition.
If she still hasn't expelled the egg, and you don't think she's going to on her own, then you can move to manual manipulation. This only applies if she is still bright and not in shock. Palpate the abdomen to find the location of the egg and gently manipulate it in an effort to move it along. GENTLE is the key word here. If manual manipulation fails and you can see the tip of the egg, another option is aspiration, implosion, and manual removal.
First, get someone to help you hold the bird very securely while you work (preferably not upside down). Then, using a syringe and a large needle (18ga.), draw the contents of the egg into the syringe. After aspiration of the contents, gently collapse the egg all around. You want to do this gently in order to keep the inner membrane of the egg in tact, which will keep the eggshell fragments together.
Last, gently remove the egg. (Copious amounts of lubrication would be good here.) Go slow and try to keep the shell together (although broken). If all fragments do not come out, they should pass, along with remaining egg content, within the next several days.
These are simple, at-home remedies for a condition that can become very serious. There are more methods available for the more difficult cases, but too many to list here. If your hen isn't helped by the methods I've listed, then either the egg binding is serious, or you have a different problem altogether. If it is a severe case of egg binding, it may be serious enough for a Veterinarian. If a local Vet is not available that is willing to help, you're desperate to save the bird, and you are a brave soul, you may be able to get a Vet from an Agricultural College to walk you through a more complex procedure.
But for the simple cases of egg binding for a hen's first egg, the above procedures may be just enough to save many of the birds that are lost each year at sexual maturity.
NaturesGift
09-22-2007, 08:39 PM
this is chickens, but some info
EGG BINDING is a serious disorder that most commonly affects a young hen when laying her first egg, but can affect any hen at any time.
Some cases are so severe that the only possible solution is surgical, and can result in a complete hysterectomy. This would require the assistance of a qualified Veterinarian and must be done under a general anesthetic. But I'd like to discuss the cases that would be considered mild to moderate, where the brave and curious Fancier is interested in trying to help out their hen.
The first thing I highly recommend (although I realize not always practical), is to obtain an x-ray of the bird's abdomen. This is a valuable tool in confirming that you truly have an egg bound problem. Swollen and distended abdomens can be symptomatic of other more serious disorders. If the x-ray shows a distinctly formed and calcified egg, then you have a certain course of action. If the x-ray shows no distinct egg formation, then you can be dealing with a shell-less egg and that can get complicated. You may even be dealing with an internal layer. However, if the hen's internal structures are fuzzy and indistinct, you could also be dealing with an abdomen that is filled with fluid. In this case, you'd be dealing with a completely different problem.
A fluid-filled abdomen could be a sign of peritonitis - egg related or otherwise. Whether caused by egg material never passed or not, a good course of action is to immediately put the hen on a good broad-spectrum antibiotic, such as Baytril. (Good SUPPORTIVE THERAPY should be included in any treatment program - May issue.) If the condition does not improve through the course of treatment, then a local Veterinarian should be consulted for possible fluid removal and to determine the next course of action.
If the x-ray confirms the presence of a calcified egg (egg with a shell), and the hen is not in any serious distress, then you can follow a conservative and simple medical and supportive approach.
Begin by making sure the hen has adequate protein, calcium, selenium, and vitamins A and E, since dietary insufficiencies can be a cause of egg binding. A preventative course of antibiotics is good too, but make sure you add a good probiotic during and after treatment.
Be sure the hen has plenty of fresh water to drink (hand water if necessary), and lubricate the cloaca (vent). Use a water based lubricant such as K-Y Jelly. This should be applied at regular intervals. Attempt to get some just inside the cloaca - but be cautious not to cause a tear in delicate tissues. If you can see the tip of the egg through the cloaca, even better - lubricate it too. An additional step that can be taken is to attach a heat-softened piece of small tubing to a 3 cc syringe and inject warmed KY or warm soapy water (mixed with sterile water) via the tube up past and around the egg.
A warm, moist environment is helpful. If you have a duck, you can begin by offering her a very warm bath. (Bantams fit nicely in the kitchen sink - much to the dismay of my spouse.) If you can find a small screen to lay over the top and put something heavy on the edges to secure it, then you can walk away and let the girl float about for awhile. If you have a hen, then you'll have to support her so that the bottom half of her body is submersed for about fifteen minutes. As long as the bird seems fine otherwise, I would just repeat this at regular intervals, and give Mother Nature a chance to work.
If you can palpate the egg to determine that it's close to delivery, and your bird seems to be having a hard time, you can go beyond the warm water baths and put her into an incubator. Set the temperature between 85-90 degrees with high humidity or place wet towels inside the incubator. Make sure the bird has a fresh airflow. Most incubators have a good intake and exhaust system for fresh air - but make sure the air holes are open so that you don't suffocate your bird. Don't leave her in there more than a few hours. And keep an eye on her condition.
If she still hasn't expelled the egg, and you don't think she's going to on her own, then you can move to manual manipulation. This only applies if she is still bright and not in shock. Palpate the abdomen to find the location of the egg and gently manipulate it in an effort to move it along. GENTLE is the key word here. If manual manipulation fails and you can see the tip of the egg, another option is aspiration, implosion, and manual removal.
First, get someone to help you hold the bird very securely while you work (preferably not upside down). Then, using a syringe and a large needle (18ga.), draw the contents of the egg into the syringe. After aspiration of the contents, gently collapse the egg all around. You want to do this gently in order to keep the inner membrane of the egg in tact, which will keep the eggshell fragments together.
Last, gently remove the egg. (Copious amounts of lubrication would be good here.) Go slow and try to keep the shell together (although broken). If all fragments do not come out, they should pass, along with remaining egg content, within the next several days.
These are simple, at-home remedies for a condition that can become very serious. There are more methods available for the more difficult cases, but too many to list here. If your hen isn't helped by the methods I've listed, then either the egg binding is serious, or you have a different problem altogether. If it is a severe case of egg binding, it may be serious enough for a Veterinarian. If a local Vet is not available that is willing to help, you're desperate to save the bird, and you are a brave soul, you may be able to get a Vet from an Agricultural College to walk you through a more complex procedure.
But for the simple cases of egg binding for a hen's first egg, the above procedures may be just enough to save many of the birds that are lost each year at sexual maturity.
great minds think alike I read the same website. :) I am about to give her a warm bath.
I cant get a xray, No vets around her will do birds :( I feel the egg.
NaturesGift
09-22-2007, 08:41 PM
oh i'm so sorry to hear that! poor duckie!
i can't help you with the technicalities, but i really hope it's just the egg. has she shown any other symptoms? can you take her in for the night?
here's hope for you both. :Love_Icon
thanks TS, :Love_Icon No other symptoms she is panting though. I wil have her in for the night so I can check on her alot. just for right now its cooler outside.
hazel
09-22-2007, 08:54 PM
Calcium helps muscles work better and does so quickly. Got any suppliments you can add to her food? Warmth, humidity and lubrication are all essential.
Otherwise I know of nothing to add that's not already in the article.
My fingers are crossed, NG! I hope Sweetie recovers :Love_Icon
squirrelfriend
09-22-2007, 08:59 PM
I remember having chickens as a child. One of our hens had a problem simular to this. Mind you it was a long time ago but I remember my mother saying that she thinks one of the eggs broke while still inside. If so what do you do?
NaturesGift
09-22-2007, 10:42 PM
No egg yet . SHe is sitting on my lap ..all wet from her long warm bath..
Thanks Hazel . I have calcium pills. though there is suppose to be calcium in her food:dono
working on lubrication :)
squirrel friend,. I thinI read once that if the egg breaks it can be fatal.
NaturesGift
09-22-2007, 11:41 PM
ok she is properly lubricated. :crazy
poor thing. there she was snugling up to m eon my lap. preening my hair.. making lil high pitched noises at me. . . only to think ... of what I was planning to do to her. she didnt handle it all that bad either. she was calm. *amazing*
I will let you know how she does.
Mrs. Jack
09-23-2007, 11:15 AM
checked this thread first. good luck!
NaturesGift
09-23-2007, 02:01 PM
No egg yet. She still isnt walking and she doesnt want to eat. :shakehead SHe is drinking. If it comes down to it i will tube her. She is still perky and if I set her down she tries to walk but just cant. :sad
thanks for your concern Mrs Jack. I know im not alone. :grouphug
Im going to bath her again. then re lubricate.
NaturesGift
09-23-2007, 03:15 PM
ok she walks!!!!!!!!
no egg yet. she walks a lil stiff legged. I really believe its the egg. she is panting. I will let you all know what happens:)
Mrs. Jack
09-23-2007, 03:53 PM
thanks for the update... I'll be thinking egg laying thoughts.
LynninIN
09-23-2007, 04:00 PM
:grouphug
GhosTS
09-24-2007, 10:52 AM
I dont have anything to add for that article..I'm just able to pray that all will go well..:grouphug
NaturesGift
09-24-2007, 10:59 PM
Thanks everyone for your prayers.
I am sorry to say Sweetie passed this afternoon.
hazel
09-25-2007, 12:26 AM
Mandie, I'm so very sorry! It's so hard to lose a special friend. Heaven is even sweeter now.....:Love_Icon :grouphug :Love_Icon
wdarmac
09-25-2007, 12:34 AM
:sad :sad My deepest sympathy for your loss.:grouphug
GhosTS
09-25-2007, 12:13 PM
Sorry to hear about Sweety, NG..:sad :grouphug
atlantasquirrelgirl
09-26-2007, 07:42 PM
I'm so sorry for your loss, NG.
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