Feeding feedback needed

[LTNCA.writer]

Hello,
I am currently feeding goat's milk to a squirrel I think is about 7 weeks old. Today he has a tiny bit of diarrhea, so I will push back on the amount of milk I am currently feeding him and add some sugar water to it. What do you all think? Thank you:blowkiss

[Mel1959]

7 weeks old is too old for goats milk formula unless it is powdered puppy Esbilac goats milk formula. We don’t ever recommend straight goats milk and homemade goats milk formula is only a temporary formula for those babies under 3-4 weeks old. It does not contain nearly enough nutrients to sustain a growing squirrel. You will need to go to Tractor Supply or a pet store and buy POWDERED ESBILAC PUPPY FORMULA with an expiration date of 20/21 or later OR order FOX VALLEY 20/50 from an online source. All puppy formulas are not the same, even if they’re made by the same company.

The diarrhea is probably a result of the incorrect formula or you are overfeeding. Squirrels are fed 5-7% of their weight at each feeding. So a 100gr squirrel would be feed between 5-7ml per feeding.

Offer the homemade pedialyte solution, but for no more than 24 hrs. in between feedings. Homemade pedialyte recipe: 1 cup warm water, 3/4 Tablespoon sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt.

[LTNCA.writer]

7 weeks old is too old for goats milk formula unless it is powdered puppy Esbilac goats milk formula. We don’t ever recommend straight goats milk and homemade goats milk formula is only a temporary formula for those babies under 3-4 weeks old. It does not contain nearly enough nutrients to sustain a growing squirrel. You will need to go to Tractor Supply or a pet store and buy POWDERED ESBILAC PUPPY FORMULA with an expiration date of 20/21 or later OR order FOX VALLEY 20/50 from an online source. All puppy formulas are not the same, even if they’re made by the same company.

The diarrhea is probably a result of the incorrect formula or you are overfeeding. Squirrels are fed 5-7% of their weight at each feeding. So a 100gr squirrel would be feed between 5-7ml per feeding.

Offer the homemade pedialyte solution, but for no more than 24 hrs. in between feedings. Homemade pedialyte recipe: 1 cup warm water, 3/4 Tablespoon sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt.

Thank you, I was told by an employee at Petco that goat's milk from the store was ok. But I will go out now and get powdered puppy milk. The little guy has his eyes open and a fluffy tail. But he does not want to eat and only wants his milk. He eats and sleeps! He seems to act like a young baby, but he looks like an adult. He is a real cutie!!

[Mel1959]

A picture would be helpful. I hope you got Esbilac powdered puppy formula.

[LTNCA.writer]

A picture would be helpful. I hope you got Esbilac powdered puppy formula.

Hi, okay here is a picture of Orville. What age do you all think he is?

I did a feeding of pedialyte, and now on puppy formula. Doing good. He still does not want to eat but only his milk.

[LTNCA.writer]

I have a picture of my little guy, but I do not know how to submit it.

[stepnstone]

I have a picture of my little guy, but I do not know how to submit it.

How to upload pictures explained:
https://thesquirrelboard.com/forums/showthread.php?41231-Uploading-pics-in-the-upgraded-TSB

[LTNCA.writer]

[QUOTE=stepnstone;1329341]How to upload pictures explained:
https://thesquirrelboard.com/forums/showthread.php?41231-Uploading-pics-in-the-upgraded-TSB[/QUOT317667

here is Orville; how old does he seem to be? Thank you

[Mel1959]

It’s hard to tell from the picture. Is Orville a gray or a Fox squirrel? Is he sitting up and holding food to eat? His tail appears to be bushy. I’d guess that he was about 7-8 was old.

At 7-8 weeks old he should be taking formula 3 times a day. Did you order a rodent block from Henrys Pets online? They are the most well liked....especially the Picky Eater variety. This should be his first solid food. We offer a rodent block as soon as their eyes open at 5 weeks.

What formula did you get for him? He looks a little dehydrated in the picture. Offer him slightly sweetened water BETWEEN his normal formula feedings.

[LTNCA.writer]

It’s hard to tell from the picture. Is Orville a gray or a Fox squirrel? Is he sitting up and holding food to eat? His tail appears to be bushy. I’d guess that he was about 7-8 was old.

At 7-8 weeks old he should be taking formula 3 times a day. Did you order a rodent block from Henrys Pets online? They are the most well liked....especially the Picky Eater variety. This should be his first solid food. We offer a rodent block as soon as their eyes open at 5 weeks.

What formula did you get for him? He looks a little dehydrated in the picture. Offer him slightly sweetened water BETWEEN his normal formula feedings.


Thank you for all your feedback. I think he is a gray squirrel. These seem to be the only ones around this area (way up towards northern California which is a little bit outside Oregon Border). Now he is on puppy formula from Petco which is Esbilac 2nd. I guessed his age to be about 7 weeks too. In the picture, he is laying on my arm. I went to PetSmart last night looking for rodent block but they didn't have any. So I will order from Henrys Pet on-line. I am giving him more sweetened water because his pooh is yellow mush. It had been pebbles. He has gained weight since having him which is about a week now. I sit with him in the morning sun for about 5 to 8 minutes. He has become way more active now. He was so week and dehydrated when I found him. A grown squirrel had been on the street dead a few days before I found him. It was probably his mother. In the picture, he probably was a bit dehydrated since I had just found him a few days before. I hope he isn't now. But I watch his pee output and it seems good. I wake him around 2 A.M. for one last feeding before the morning time. He has roughly 3 to four feedings a day. I feed him until he is full. I watched a utube video on this site on how to hold the nipple. I ordered a really good one on-line after the bottle and syringe didn't work out so well. He kept asperating so I would wipe his nose and quickly hold him upside down.

[Mel1959]

That is not the correct food for him. This is undoubtedly why he has diarrhea. You must get regular Esbilac powdered formula. There is no substitution for this that can be purchased from a big box store. You can order Fox Valley 20/50 from Henrys online, but the Esbilac 2nd is not going to work. When squirrels are growing so quickly they need the proper nutrients. If some of the necessary nutrients are lacking then they can end up with Metabolic Bone Disease which not only weakens their bones but it can kill them if left untreated.

I compare the needs of a baby squirrel to the needs of a human baby. We don’t feed human babies straight cows milk because it doesn’t contain the necessary nutrients for them to grow properly. It’s the same for squirrels. Esbilac has been used for some time as a substitute for squirrel moms milk, but it was not without issues, too. About 18 months ago they changed their source of calcium and baby squirrels were developing MBD, had broken bones and were dying. They corrected the problem, but you can see how one change impacted the lives of many squirrels.

The same is true for using Esbilac 2nd. It’s a weaning formula, so it’s meant to reduce the caloric and nutritional content of the formula as you get your dog eating more traditional food. This is not what you want for a baby squirrel.

PLEASE get the correct formula and then don’t feed him all he wants. Weigh him on a gram scale that can be purchased from Walmart for about $20 and feed him 5-7% of his weight at each feeding. He may want more than that which is fine but increase the amount gradually, this is how you keep him from having diarrhea. Also, he doesn’t need a 2am feeding. Just 3-4 feedings a day.

[LTNCA.writer]

That is not the correct food for him. This is undoubtedly why he has diarrhea. You must get regular Esbilac powdered formula. There is no substitution for this that can be purchased from a big box store. You can order Fox Valley 20/50 from Henrys online, but the Esbilac 2nd is not going to work. When squirrels are growing so quickly they need the proper nutrients. If some of the necessary nutrients are lacking then they can end up with Metabolic Bone Disease which not only weakens their bones but it can kill them if left untreated.

I compare the needs of a baby squirrel to the needs of a human baby. We don’t feed human babies straight cows milk because it doesn’t contain the necessary nutrients for them to grow properly. It’s the same for squirrels. Esbilac has been used for some time as a substitute for squirrel moms milk, but it was not without issues, too. About 18 months ago they changed their source of calcium and baby squirrels were developing MBD, had broken bones and were dying. They corrected the problem, but you can see how one change impacted the lives of many squirrels.

The same is true for using Esbilac 2nd. It’s a weaning formula, so it’s meant to reduce the caloric and nutritional content of the formula as you get your dog eating more traditional food. This is not what you want for a baby squirrel.

PLEASE get the correct formula and then don’t feed him all he wants. Weigh him on a gram scale that can be purchased from Walmart for about $20 and feed him 5-7% of his weight at each feeding. He may want more than that which is fine but increase the amount gradually, this is how you keep him from having diarrhea. Also, he doesn’t need a 2am feeding. Just 3-4 feedings a day.

I am so glad for this posting board. I am leaving right now to get the right formula. Thank you so much.

[LTNCA.writer]

317737

My baby squirrel today!

[Mel1959]

He looks good. Are you weighing him daily or every other day and seeing a steady weight gain? This is important and how we gauge that a baby is getting enough food.

May I suggest that you replace the towel in his cage with a baby blanket or some polartec fleece. I buy those super soft baby blankets at Ross when they put them on clearance. They’re only about $3 or $4. You can also get polartec fleece from Walmart or JoAnns fabrics. No sewing required, just cut the fleece and put it in his cage. The edges won’t unravel. They can get their toenails caught in the tiny loops in towels so it’s best to avoid them.

You can offer plain water between feedings if you think he needs it. Has the diarrhea stopped?

I see he’s eating something. Did you order some Henrys rodent blocks from Henrys Pets online? Some type of rodent block should be his first food. Once he’s eating that well then you can move on to green veggies.

You did a good job with him. He’s lucky to have found you. :hug

[LTNCA.writer]

He looks good. Are you weighing him daily or every other day and seeing a steady weight gain? This is important and how we gauge that a baby is getting enough food.

May I suggest that you replace the towel in his cage with a baby blanket or some polartec fleece. I buy those super soft baby blankets at Ross when they put them on clearance. They’re only about $3 or $4. You can also get polartec fleece from Walmart or JoAnns fabrics. No sewing required, just cut the fleece and put it in his cage. The edges won’t unravel. They can get their toenails caught in the tiny loops in towels so it’s best to avoid them.

You can offer plain water between feedings if you think he needs it. Has the diarrhea stopped?

I see he’s eating something. Did you order some Henrys rodent blocks from Henrys Pets online? Some type of rodent block should be his first food. Once he’s eating that well then you can move on to green veggies.

You did a good job with him. He’s lucky to have found you. :hug

Hi, maybe I spoke too soon! Or I may be being overly paranoid... The diarrhea has stopped. I ordered two different kinds of rodent blocks from Henrys and put a 2-day rush on it. I have only one fleece blanket which just got washed so I will pick up more. No, I have not been weighing him...the reason being I thought I was smart enough to notice any changes in his weight and I'm not smart enough to use weights and measuring sticks (I'm terrible with math). But I will get a scale and ask for you-alls help in how to read the weights. Today, he seems weak. He is having a hard time staying in a sitting position. I sat in the sun with him and really felt his little skeleton and it seems bony to me. I think he should have more muscle mass. Yesterday my friend came over who will be the one I will introduce him to for a soft release because she has lots of land and trees and almost no cats; he was actually afraid of her since she is a stranger to him. All and all I was so pleased with how things have been going. I'm not sure if my little guy is getting the right amount of protein...

[Buddy]

Super cute!! :blowkiss

[Mel1959]

Did you get powdered puppy Esbilac? Are you mixing it 1 part powder to 2 parts hot water? If possible let it sit in the fridge after being mixed for a few hrs and shake it occasionally. How much is he eating at each feeding? Not knowing what his weight is makes it difficult to know if you’re feeding enough. After you feed him is his belly nicely rounded but still squishy and not tight?

Please answer the questions so we can help you.

[LTNCA.writer]

I have been feeding him puppy Esbilac (in a can all ready mixed). When I first started I was using the powder but I was using 1 scoop powder with 3 parts water. I went to the already mixed formula because I wasn't sure about the serving mixes. I've been going through other folk's postings and watching some videos and I notice their squirrels are playing a lot. Yesterday Orville was the most active since finding him. He has one countertop in the kitchen that I let him run around on. I don't think he is getting enough running around and playtime...

[LTNCA.writer]

I have been feeding him puppy Esbilac (in a can all ready mixed). When I first started I was using the powder but I was using 1 scoop powder with 3 parts water. I went to the already mixed formula because I wasn't sure about the serving mixes. I've been going through other folk's postings and watching some videos and I notice their squirrels are playing a lot. Yesterday Orville was the most active since finding him. He has one countertop in the kitchen that I let him run around on. I don't think he is getting enough running around and playtime...


Okay, Orville just woke up and so I took a deep breath, and put him down, and now he is running around exploring things in the living room. He seems to be really enjoying himself. I feel better now.

[Mel1959]

Okay, Orville just woke up and so I took a deep breath, and put him down, and now he is running around exploring things in the living room. He seems to be really enjoying himself. I feel better now.

You MUST go back to the powdered Esbilac formula. The liquid is NOT THE SAME. Please...we can’t help you get Orville raised if you don’t follow our instructions! Mix the powdered puppy Esbilac (not Esbilac 2nd or any other type of powdered puppy formula) 1 part powder to 2 parts hot water.....just like the instructions on the can tell you to do.

The liquid does not contain the same level of nutrients and causes loose stool!

[LTNCA.writer]

Okay, I'll switch out the formula. Yicks!

[LTNCA.writer]

Okay, Orville just woke up and so I took a deep breath, and put him down, and now he is running around exploring things in the living room. He seems to be really enjoying himself. I feel better now.

Question please; I was assured by the pet store that the powder formula and the liquid formula are equal in nutrition, so my question is is the reason for giving 1 serving powder to two parts water (instead of three parts water) is to allow the squirrel more nutrition? Because you can't really give extra nutrition from the liquid formula. Thank you in advance.:w00t

[Mel1959]

You are believing an employee of a big box pet store, that probably has zero experience with the formula needs of a squirrel versus the combined 75+ years of experience of licensed wildlife rehabbers??!

The composition of the liquid Esbilac IS NOT THE SAME as the composition of the powdered Esbilac. We have seen it time and time again that the liquid Esbilac upsets the intestines of squirrels, resulting in diarrhea. The POWDERED VERSION of Esbilac is used in multiple zoos and wildlife facilities. Why do you think they use the powdered version versus the liquid?? Because it works for wildlife and the liquid doesn’t. Please remember that Powdered Esbilac used for wildlife is being used off label....that doesn’t change the fact that it works, but trust me....Joe blow at PetSmart is completely clueless about raising wildlife.

There is no need beyond the first 24 hours to dilute the powdered Esbilac with 3 parts water. I’m not sure why this is even an issue. After the first 24 hours an infant squirrel needs to be transitioned to full strength formula (1 part powder/ 2 parts water) because they need the nutrients of the formula, not a watered down version. Rehydration can be added BETWEEN feedings if it is needed.

[LTNCA.writer]

You are believing an employee of a big box pet store, that probably has zero experience with the formula needs of a squirrel versus the combined 75+ years of experience of licensed wildlife rehabbers??!

The composition of the liquid Esbilac IS NOT THE SAME as the composition of the powdered Esbilac. We have seen it time and time again that the liquid Esbilac upsets the intestines of squirrels, resulting in diarrhea. The POWDERED VERSION of Esbilac is used in multiple zoos and wildlife facilities. Why do you think they use the powdered version versus the liquid?? Because it works for wildlife and the liquid doesn’t. Please remember that Powdered Esbilac used for wildlife is being used off label....that doesn’t change the fact that it works, but trust me....Joe blow at PetSmart is completely clueless about raising wildlife.

There is no need beyond the first 24 hours to dilute the powdered Esbilac with 3 parts water. I’m not sure why this is even an issue. After the first 24 hours an infant squirrel needs to be transitioned to full strength formula (1 part powder/ 2 parts water) because they need the nutrients of the formula, not a watered down version. Rehydration can be added BETWEEN feedings if it is needed.

Thank you for all your knowledge and expertise. I'm just an ignorant person with zero experience with wildlife who happened upon a helpless baby squirrel who ran to me asking for help. I'm just trying to keep him alive at this point.

[Mel1959]

I completely understand the position you’re in. All I’m trying to do is help you keep him alive. My point is that the folks on this board recommend what is tried and true based on their experience and knowledge. There’s no blue print here. Someone who works in a pet store does not have the experience with wildlife that the folks on this board have. That’s why it’s frustrating for us when we share what we’ve known to work and it’s disregarded and not followed. The squirrel is the one who suffers. :sniff ....and we hate to see squirrels suffer.

[LTNCA.writer]

I completely understand the position you’re in. All I’m trying to do is help you keep him alive. My point is that the folks on this board recommend what is tried and true based on their experience and knowledge. There’s no blue print here. Someone who works in a pet store does not have the experience with wildlife that the folks on this board have. That’s why it’s frustrating for us when we share what we’ve known to work and it’s disregarded and not followed. The squirrel is the one who suffers. :sniff ....and we hate to see squirrels suffer.

Well said! Gotcha. :blowkiss

[LTNCA.writer]

[ATTACH]317853

[LTNCA.writer]

Orville is a Western Gray Squirrel :serene

[stepnstone]

Orville is beautiful! :Love_Icon

Good pics. :great
I do want to ask what will sound like a strange request but...
Could you post a picture of Orville's stomach including genital area?

[LTNCA.writer]

Orville is beautiful! :Love_Icon

Good pics. :great
I do want to ask what will sound like a strange request but...
Could you post a picture of Orville's stomach including genital area?


Will do. He is sleeping for the night now, but tomorrow I will post a pic. Not strange at all :dance

[LTNCA.writer]

Orville is beautiful! :Love_Icon

Good pics. :great
I do want to ask what will sound like a strange request but...
Could you post a picture of Orville's stomach including genital area?


Can you see this?

[Rock Monkey]

Just based on the pictures on the couch, he looks good.

[Rock Monkey]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLjRlzTOGHY&ab_channel=squirrelsandmorellc

This a good video regarding feeding technique and related matters.

Also, Walmart sells digital scales for about $15 if you don't already have one.

[Mel1959]

Orville is a Western Gray Squirrel :serene

Orville is definitely a boy and he is adorable! :klunk:Love_Icon We don’t get very many western gray squirrels on here.

[LTNCA.writer]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLjRlzTOGHY&ab_channel=squirrelsandmorellc

This a good video regarding feeding technique and related matters.

Also, Walmart sells digital scales for about $15 if you don't already have one.

Hi, I got my hands on a Salter digital scale. Orville is 11.4 today. This is the first time I have weighed him. He moves a lot and really fast.
I watched the video and I am so thankful my little guy was older thus stronger. I can see I had made so many mistakes in feeding him properly.

[stepnstone]

Hi, I got my hands on a Salter digital scale. Orville is 11.4 today. This is the first time I have weighed him. He moves a lot and really fast.
I watched the video and I am so thankful my little guy was older thus stronger. I can see I had made so many mistakes in feeding him properly.

What does the 11.4 indicate?
How much does he weigh?
He's not 11.4 grams and certinally not 11.4 pounds. :dono

[Rock Monkey]

Hi, I got my hands on a Salter digital scale. Orville is 11.4 today. This is the first time I have weighed him. He moves a lot and really fast.
I watched the video and I am so thankful my little guy was older thus stronger. I can see I had made so many mistakes in feeding him properly.

I am so glad that you found the video helpful.

These digital scales can show the weight in a variety of different units. My scale has a "unit" button and an "on/off" button. (Check your instructions if need be.) If you press the "unit" button it will cycle through the various units of measurement. Keep clicking until you see the small "g" next to the measured weight. This will be the squirrel's weight in grams. This is the unit of measurement that we use on this site.

Having the scale allows you to see if your squirrel is gaining weight (or losing weight). (The weight is a simple, basic measure of the squirrel's health.) Keep a daily log of the weight somewhere. It allows you do the proper math to know how much formula to give your squirrel, too much formula or too little can both cause serious problems. Let us know if you have any problem figuring out how much formula to feed your squirrel.

[LTNCA.writer]

What does the 11.4 indicate?
How much does he weigh?
He's not 11.4 grams and certinally not 11.4 pounds. :dono

Hi, I think it means oz. the scale belongs to a close friend who is going to help me with the weight and food portions for Orville. However, she had a death in the family and had to go out of town. I was hoping by giving the type of scale someone could help me. Orville does not stand still long enough to really read the scale.

[stepnstone]

Hi, I think it means oz. the scale belongs to a close friend who is going to help me with the weight and food portions for Orville. However, she had a death in the family and had to go out of town. I was hoping by giving the type of scale someone could help me. Orville does not stand still long enough to really read the scale.

Got it. :great Sounds good.
11.4 ounces = 323 grams
Feeding between 5-7%
5% = 16.1 cc's - 6% = 19.3 cc's - 7% = 22.6 cc's

[Mel1959]

Stepnstone means 5%=16ccs, 6%=19ccs and 7%=22ccs. :blowkiss

[Rock Monkey]

Orville does not stand still long enough to really read the scale.

That is a typical problem. You can weigh a small box (or something), write down that weight, and then place Orville inside the box and this will give you the weight of Orville and the box. Next, just take a calculator and subtract the weight of the box from the total. What remains will be Orville's weight.

Some digital scales also have a "tare" button. This is also usually the power button. If you put the box on the scale and briefly press the "tare" button it will zero the scale with the box on it. If you put Orville inside the box after having done this the digital scale will show Orville's weight. However, with this method, each day you will have to hit "tare" every time you put the empty box on the scale.

So there are two ways to weigh the constantly-on-the-go Orville.

Can you post a picture of the scale with it turned on?

Salter makes a number of different models of digital scales. (Orville doesn't need to be in the picture or on the scale.)

[LTNCA.writer]

Got it. :great Sounds good.
11.4 ounces = 323 grams
Feeding between 5-7%
5% = 16.1 cc's - 6% = 19.3 cc's - 7% = 22.6 cc's

Thank you for this breakdown, I'll have my friend help me with the numbers. I struggled through college math of any kind. I had to always get tutors to pass the mandatory statistic and calculus courses. I don't even try to catch on anymore...:grin2

[LTNCA.writer]

Thank you for this breakdown, I'll have my friend help me with the numbers. I struggled through college math of any kind. I had to always get tutors to pass the mandatory statistic and calculus courses. I don't even try to catch on anymore...:grin2

317910

[Rock Monkey]

317910

Thank you for posting a picture of the scale. It looks like an older model. It is probably better made than what they sell currently.

On the front I can see the "tare" button on the left and the "on/off" on the right, but the resolution of the picture isn't high enough to make out any other details. There should be something about "units" somewhere. It might possibly be on the bottom.

1 cc = 1 ml

1 cc of water weighs approximately 1 gram.

1 ounce = 28.34 grams.

11.4 ounce x 28.34 grams/ounce = 323 grams (Orville's Weight)

5% of body weight (of Orville) = 323 g x .05 = 16.15 g is approximately equal in mass to 16.15 ml of formula.
6% of body weight (of Orville) = 323 g x .06 = 19.38 g is approximately equal in mass to 22.61 ml of formula.
7% of body weight (of Orville) = 323 g x .07 = 22.61 g is approximately equal in mass to 22.61 ml of formula.

So you just put Orville's most recent weight into the above three equations.

[LTNCA.writer]

Thank you for posting a picture of the scale. It looks like an older model. It is probably better made than what they sell currently.

On the front I can see the "tare" button on the left and the "on/off" on the right, but the resolution of the picture isn't high enough to make out any other details. There should be something about "units" somewhere. It might possibly be on the bottom.

1 cc = 1 ml

1 cc of water weighs approximately 1 gram.

1 ounce = 28.34 grams.

11.4 ounce x 28.34 grams/ounce = 323 grams (Orville's Weight)

5% of body weight (of Orville) = 323 g x .05 = 16.15 g is approximately equal in mass to 16.15 ml of formula.
6% of body weight (of Orville) = 323 g x .06 = 19.38 g is approximately equal in mass to 22.61 ml of formula.
7% of body weight (of Orville) = 323 g x .07 = 22.61 g is approximately equal in mass to 22.61 ml of formula.

So you just put Orville's most recent weight into the above three equations.

Thank you so much for sticking with me. I really appreciate it. Orville loves the powdered formula and I am slowly introducing him to coconut, walnuts, carrots, apples (without skin), almonds, banana, just a little organic granola, acorns, and I think that's it. In two days I will have my squirrel block from Henrys. :w00t

[Mel1959]

Go easy on the nuts. They are considered a treat and should be limited....especially if he hasn’t even started eating block yet. You want him to eat the block really well before he weans himself off formula and is given veggies and fruits. I don’t offer any nuts till my guys are out in the release cage at 14 weeks old. This way I don’t have to worry about them being stashed or any nut aggression.

[island rehabber]

Go easy on the nuts. They are considered a treat and should be limited....especially if he hasn’t even started eating block yet. You want him to eat the block really well before he weans himself off formula and is given veggies and fruits. I don’t offer any nuts till my guys are out in the release cage at 14 weeks old. This way I don’t have to worry about them being stashed or any nut aggression.

:goodpost:goodpost:goodpost

[LTNCA.writer]

Go easy on the nuts. They are considered a treat and should be limited....especially if he hasn’t even started eating block yet. You want him to eat the block really well before he weans himself off formula and is given veggies and fruits. I don’t offer any nuts till my guys are out in the release cage at 14 weeks old. This way I don’t have to worry about them being stashed or any nut aggression.

Okay! Good to know about the nuts. Thank you.:dance

[Rock Monkey]

Regarding the scale, does the silver handle below the 'tare' button move? That might change the scales settings including the 'units' displayed.

You can also try some cooked butternut squash or sweet potato. Cooking it makes it easier to digest.

[LTNCA.writer]

Orville is a bit all over the place with his eating likes and dislikes. He is not real fond of the block food. I saw one type on Henry's site that mentions "picky" so I'm going on the idea that this would be for picky eaters. I'm ordering it today. The scale I'm currently using allows me to put an object on the scale, let it weigh it and then place what actually needs weighing to read.

At this point, I've got to get Orville to start eating block food. I'm playing a game with him on who can hold out the longest! He is begging for food that he wants over what he should be eating. He is also preferring water over his formula.

[Mel1959]

We call what you’re going through, “tough love”. Yes, order the picky blocks, they are the most well liked, followed by the hazelnut blocks. It is no different than the kids at the dinner table that refuse to eat their veggies....it’s all about who holds out the longest. Stand your ground and once you get the picky blocks I hope he will come around. :tap

[Rock Monkey]

Keep holding out.

https://henryspets.com/healthy-diet-for-pet-squirrels/

Experiment with different vegetables found on the above list. If Orville doesn't like them, you can always eat them.

The items in group three seem to be better liked, but need to be fed in balanced quantities.

[LTNCA.writer]

Keep holding out.

https://henryspets.com/healthy-diet-for-pet-squirrels/

Experiment with different vegetables found on the above list. If Orville doesn't like them, you can always eat them.

The items in group three seem to be better liked, but need to be fed in balanced quantities.

Thank you for the list. Orville had his first day out to explore the backyard. He is very afraid of everything and everyone, but he is full of energy and playfulness. :serene

[LTNCA.writer]

Orville is ready to explore the outdoors because he now has his block food for picky eaters. He isn't really liking formula anymore. I let him outdoors until he gets scared and wants to come inside. His little nails are tearing up my skin because he likes to run all up and down me :dance. I'm really torn as to where to seek an outdoor life for him. My neighborhood has too much traffic and cats. My good friend has the perfect place but it is a distance from my home and she is not always healthy enough to tend to Orville's needs if need be. We have a rehabilitation place for birds and wildlife that is located on a large piece of land. I have also thought to call an animal shelter to ask what their opinion is. Orville is very independent but he needs to be watched and rescued when he gets frightened.

What are you'alls thoughts? Thank you. :grouphug :clap

[Mel1959]

First, I don’t think it’s a good idea for you to let him outside. He may scamper up a tree and not come back down because he’s too frightened. We never recommend allowing them outside without a cage until they are prepared and ready to be released.

How old is Orville? The fact that he’s frightened should tell you that he’s not prepared for a life in the trees yet. Are you familiar with the slow release method? Here’s a link that will explain it. https://thesquirrelboard.com/forums/showthread.php?41071-SOFT-RELEASE-The-How-to-Sticky

Singleton squirrels do better if they are released at an older age...in fact all squirrels do IMO.

The animal shelter will not know what to do with him and would probably euthanize him. It may not be easy to find a rehabilitator that will release for you but I’d definitely go that route. Reach out to Mary Cummins at Animal Advocates 323-651-1336. She’s in the Los Angeles area and may be able to help or direct you to someone who can.

Please don’t let Orville outside anymore, he may take off and you’ll never see him again. That is not the way for him to be introduced to a life in the trees.

[LTNCA.writer]

First, I don’t think it’s a good idea for you to let him outside. He may scamper up a tree and not come back down because he’s too frightened. We never recommend allowing them outside without a cage until they are prepared and ready to be released.

How old is Orville? The fact that he’s frightened should tell you that he’s not prepared for a life in the trees yet. Are you familiar with the slow release method? Here’s a link that will explain it. https://thesquirrelboard.com/forums/showthread.php?41071-SOFT-RELEASE-The-How-to-Sticky

Singleton squirrels do better if they are released at an older age...in fact all squirrels do IMO.

The animal shelter will not know what to do with him and would probably euthanize him. It may not be easy to find a rehabilitator that will release for you but I’d definitely go that route. Reach out to Mary Cummins at Animal Advocates 323-651-1336. She’s in the Los Angeles area and may be able to help or direct you to someone who can.

Please don’t let Orville outside anymore, he may take off and you’ll never see him again. That is not the way for him to be introduced to a life in the trees.



Okay! So, before reading this I went outside in the backyard to work on a fence. Orville went up a large tree and I kept my eyes on him I stayed outside talking with my neighbor and after about a half-hour I went to the bottom of the tree and held out my hands to him like I do to let him know that I'm going to be picking him up. He knows my voice and I think he knows his name. I called for him and he came to me. As I carried him into the house he complained a lot and even more when I put him in his cage to get food and water.

I think he was around 7 weeks when I found him. I think he is around 13 weeks old. My daughter and I trimmed his nails because they hurt the skin when he climbs on me.

I will read into soft releases and get in contact with Mary on Monday. For the last two days, Orville and I have gone in the back yard and he always stayed close to me and when he wanted back into the house he went to the glass door. This is what I thought would happen today, but he ventured up the tree.

[Mel1959]

That is proof positive that if you continue to take him outside he may take off up a tree and not come back down to you. What you’ve done then is a hard release with a squirrel that may be ill equipped to deal with the dangers of a life in the trees. It is best to not release him until he is 14-16 weeks old, or older. Especially because he’s a singleton....you should allow him to be older when you finally release him.

After all the time and energy you put into raising him, why would you not want to ensure that he has the best chance possible for survival?

[LTNCA.writer]

That is proof positive that if you continue to take him outside he may take off up a tree and not come back down to you. What you’ve done then is a hard release with a squirrel that may be ill equipped to deal with the dangers of a life in the trees. It is best to not release him until he is 14-16 weeks old, or older. Especially because he’s a singleton....you should allow him to be older when you finally release him.

After all the time and energy you put into raising him, why would you not want to ensure that he has the best chance possible for survival?

I'm so glad the little guy trusted me and came down to me when I called him. He's staying put inside the house for now. :tap

[Rock Monkey]

If you really want to take him outside, first put him in a cage and keep him in that cage and then go outside.

This way he can get some sun and hear and see the sights and sounds of the outdoor world.

If you let him loose outside, you are literally rolling the dice with his life each time. His squirrel instincts are stronger than his bond to you. Many others have made the same, well intentioned mistake, but the risk are massive and cumulative. A proper slow release at the appropriate time will vastly increase his odds of survival out in the world.

[LTNCA.writer]

If you really want to take him outside, first put him in a cage and keep him in that cage and then go outside.

This way he can get some sun and hear and see the sights and sounds of the outdoor world.

If you let him loose outside, you are literally rolling the dice with his life each time. His squirrel instincts are stronger than his bond to you. Many others have made the same, well intentioned mistake, but the risk are massive and cumulative. A proper slow release at the appropriate time will vastly increase his odds of survival out in the world.

:serene

[LTNCA.writer]

First, I don’t think it’s a good idea for you to let him outside. He may scamper up a tree and not come back down because he’s too frightened. We never recommend allowing them outside without a cage until they are prepared and ready to be released.

How old is Orville? The fact that he’s frightened should tell you that he’s not prepared for a life in the trees yet. Are you familiar with the slow release method? Here’s a link that will explain it. https://thesquirrelboard.com/forums/showthread.php?41071-SOFT-RELEASE-The-How-to-Sticky

Singleton squirrels do better if they are released at an older age...in fact all squirrels do IMO.

The animal shelter will not know what to do with him and would probably euthanize him. It may not be easy to find a rehabilitator that will release for you but I’d definitely go that route. Reach out to Mary Cummins at Animal Advocates 323-651-1336. She’s in the Los Angeles area and may be able to help or direct you to someone who can.

Please don’t let Orville outside anymore, he may take off and you’ll never see him again. That is not the way for him to be introduced to a life in the trees.

Hi, so I contacted the number for Mary but the number is no longer a working number. I contacted Shasta Wildlife Rescue at 530-365-4522 and spoke with a very nice lady. I told her everything that has happened to date with Orville. They have had some emergency calls regarding other squirrels found and injured and since my little guy is doing so well they will handle the emergencies and then make arrangements to pick my little guy up. At this point, Orville has only been in contact with me and my daughter, however, he has been around my daughter's dog and my three cats. The Shasta Wildlife Rescue also knows this so she said he may need a water bottle squirt to keep him from coming up to strangers or animals that could hurt him. They will complete the soft and hard release from here which will also include allowing him to have more time under their care before this happens.

Thank you all for the help you have given me to help Orville live out his life. I have learned a lot and made a lot of mistakes but thankfully none of my mistakes resulted in death. It has all been a success :serene

[Rock Monkey]

If he is to be released in the near future you should stop clipping his nails. They need these to climb and jump in trees with speed, agility and precision. Furthermore, the claws are weapons, very handy for backing off a predator if the situation is desperate. Of course, the claws are also needed for digging up and burying nuts.

[LTNCA.writer]

If he is to be released in the near future you should stop clipping his nails. They need these to climb and jump in trees with speed, agility and precision. Furthermore, the claws are weapons, very handy for backing off a predator if the situation is desperate. Of course, the claws are also needed for digging up and burying nuts.

Hi all, I let it be known that Orville had the tips of his nails trimmed so I could handle him better, they said they will not do anything until he has new growth. SOOOOO Orville is doing really good at building a nest. He has made new friends and three of them went rough for three days but all returned back home (perhaps free food was a factor) and I was told he likes pancakes. He actually bit a big burley handler that tried to catch him. I'm also told he is always trying to get out of his confinement. Apparently, he wants his freedom real bad.

I found an artist online who is going to watercolor a painting of Orville for me. I will share it here when it is complete. Today was my first day volunteering at the Shasta Wildlife Rescue Group. This is who has Orville except he is with a lady at her place because she has a large avary. It is getting close to the day Orville is released.