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View Full Version : Help! Beginning the release process.



jenforeman7
05-31-2011, 11:43 AM
Hi all,
Squirt will be moving into his ginormous outside cage over this upcoming weekend. He's a 13-week old, fat and sassy, grey squirrel. Some questions I have (he's my first rescue/rehab):
1. What material do you give them for the nest box?
2. Do you cover the cage at night? My plan is to keep him outside, but on the deck for a couple of weeks. Then I'll move the cage to back of the yard which borders on the woods.
3. Do you keep the same "enrichment" things in the outside cage (hammock, toys, chewies, etc.)? I've been reducing his "comforts" over the last 2 weeks, e.g. one fewer fleece blanket & less/shorter contact with me.
4. After, say, 2 weeks on the deck, I'll move him to the woods but plan to keep the cage closed off for a while. Is this wise? I'm so afraid to give him freedom before he's ready, but I don't want him to feel trapped especially if a predator is near. Does the nest box solve that problem? Should he stay longer on the deck?
Thanks for the help!

virgo062
05-31-2011, 12:00 PM
I think 13 weeks is a little young unless he is showing signs of wanting to be released....

But to answer your questions....

1. I have a wood nest box that I used inside and they have filled it with tissues and paper towels....Put some leaves, grass and sticks in there

2.I have never covered a cage I want them to have the full effect

3.I keep everything intact so they still have the home feeling

4.The right nest box will prevent preditors from getting in...It needs a ledge on the inside so they can hide and two holes...For escape

pappy1264
05-31-2011, 12:02 PM
If he has a nest box, and the cage is secure, he should be fine. Did you make the cage? An indoor bird cage is not safe to use as a release cage. How far is the woodline from the house? I would just put him there from the getgo, instead of moving him twice (imo). I use the polyfiber you use to stuff pillows, and put a big stick into the box, so they can always climb up. Does your nest box have an inside shelf to keep anything from reaching down into it? You can put tarp over the top/side of cage, for shade, wind/rain protection. Did you make a small exit door for a soft release? It is a small 3" square cut into wire, then a bigger square of wire is put over the hole, a sort of 'door' and when release time comes, you open that door, and then reclose it at night, so he can choose to go back in and be safe if he chooses. Some do, some don't.

jenforeman7
05-31-2011, 03:24 PM
Thanks for the advice! I agree that 13 weeks is too young, but he most definitely wants to get outside. His new cage was just built and it will be ready for him this weekend so technically he'll be 14 weeks. :) The cage is probably 5' x 4' x 30" made of 1" welded wire mesh, with a nest box (2 entrances, and a "foyer" & "bedroom" lol), 3 shelves, and it will have several branches of different sizes. It doesn't yet have what I call the "escape hatch" but that will be put in at the top when I'm ready for him to go exploring (I'm thinking about 4-6 weeks after he's been in the cage outside). So, I guess in the end he'll be 18-20 weeks when he's allowed out of the cage. Based on your advice, I'll take all the same things he's had in his smaller cage and put them in the big one. Also, the woodline is about 75' from the back of my house.

virgo062
05-31-2011, 03:30 PM
Thanks for the advice! I agree that 13 weeks is too young, but he most definitely wants to get outside. His new cage was just built and it will be ready for him this weekend so technically he'll be 14 weeks. :) The cage is probably 5' x 4' x 30" made of 1" welded wire mesh, with a nest box (2 entrances, and a "foyer" & "bedroom" lol), 3 shelves, and it will have several branches of different sizes. It doesn't yet have what I call the "escape hatch" but that will be put in at the top when I'm ready for him to go exploring (I'm thinking about 4-6 weeks after he's been in the cage outside). So, I guess in the end he'll be 18-20 weeks when he's allowed out of the cage. Based on your advice, I'll take all the same things he's had in his smaller cage and put them in the big one. Also, the woodline is about 75' from the back of my house.

:thumbsup Sounds like you've got it going on:thumbsup

pappy1264
05-31-2011, 04:06 PM
1" or 1/2"? Could you post a pic? Generally, for a release cage, you use 1/2" so nothing can reach through the bars. Anywhere from 2-6 weeks in the release cage (depending on how they are acting) and they will be old enough then.

MagnetFencing
06-03-2011, 11:19 PM
I'm reading this link with great interest as I am preparing for the soft release very soon. Pat is about 16 weeks old (maybe a few days older) and she's had the run of our sunroom (alone) for about a month, a big Henry's cage before that.

I have so many questions and worries.

*what do I feed her when she goes to outside cage(s) and when do I stop with the regular food portions?
*are mosquitoes a danger to them? We're by the lake.
*what predators am I looking to keep away? I know snakes.. what else?
*anything I can do to keep fleas or other insects off her?

I mean I managed to save her and get her to this stage, I'd hate to lose her because of ignorance on my part.

Rhapsody
06-04-2011, 12:10 AM
My Basic Release: ~ 16 weeks old ~

1. At 4 months old I place my squirrel(s) outside in the safe release cage
2. I continue to feed them as I did inside, but now I include more wild food
3. I spend time with the squirrels during the 1st week to get them adjusted
4. During the 2nd week I start to process of FEED & LEAVE - no CONTACT
5. They remain in the outside release cage for at least 30 days (some more)
6. When I open the door for them to leave I remain around for a short while
7. I securely lock them in their cage every night IF they return home to sleep
8. I always make sure to leave food and fresh water while they are returning


... Release Cage should include:
Nest Box
Food Bowls
Water Bottle
Covering for Top
Branches for Climbing

UDoWhat
06-04-2011, 12:31 AM
I'm reading this link with great interest as I am preparing for the soft release very soon. Pat is about 16 weeks old (maybe a few days older) and she's had the run of our sunroom (alone) for about a month, a big Henry's cage before that.

I have so many questions and worries.

*what do I feed her when she goes to outside cage(s) and when do I stop with the regular food portions?
*are mosquitoes a danger to them? We're by the lake.
*what predators am I looking to keep away? I know snakes.. what else?
*anything I can do to keep fleas or other insects off her?

I mean I managed to save her and get her to this stage, I'd hate to lose her because of ignorance on my part.
I would coninue to feed regular food amounts and be sure to add foods that the wilds are eating. Branches,seed pods, dandilion greens, etc. Whatever is in their natural diet in the area. I even include the Rodent blocks or HHB or whatever you are using. Once the squirrel is no longer in the cage and has left the enclosure I never put food in the cage with the door left open. That will draw other squirrels that will fight with yours or will draw predators in the cage. Place the food in a location near a tree so it will not be ambushed while it eats. At first they are a little goofy and don't pay as much attention but quickly catch on. Mosquitos can be a danger. I have an outdoor fan that I put out on my cages that helps with a breeze so the mosquitos aren't as bad. I would have to ask for help with what others do about mosquitos. I wish I had a better system to keep mosquitos away. Predators would include hawks, fox, cats, dogs, raccoons and skunks. All will kill squirrels to eat or to take their food from them. I would also lock the cage doors. I use those snap bolt locks or hook locks that lock with a spring. Most predators can open cage doors that are not locked. Or use a regular key type lock. I don't depend on twist ties or zip ties. Predators can chew through those in nothing flat. I put Revolution on my squirrels when I put them in the outdoor release cages. This will keep them flea, tick and mite free for at least 1 month. You can re-apply upon release. I leave mine out in the release cages for 2-3 weeks just to get use to natural night, day, sights and sounds. Then I open a small door I installed that only a squirrel sized animal can get in. When I open the door I prop a branch right beside the door to let the squirrels climb down to the ground as they come out. BTW the size of the release door is about the size of an apple or orange. Be sure to put bowls and bottles for water in the cage. Also you may need to ant proof the food by placing the feeding dishes in a shallow pan of water.
Please feel free to ask all the questions you need to in order to feel comfortable and have a safe release. :wave123

Marty, Licensed Maryland Master Wildlife Rehibilitator

lilidukes
06-04-2011, 01:07 AM
Beware of the possibility of heatstroke (and emergency treatment)if your kids have been living the pampered air conditioned life. If they are not used to the heat doing a few hours out every day and working up to all the time. A fan can be used outside the cage. Lots of shade and water. Something to pancake on in the cage is necessary like a shelf.

Best of luck

MagnetFencing
06-04-2011, 08:14 AM
...if your kids have been living the pampered air conditioned life…

I had to laugh at this… We have had her in the sunroom of our home since she started needing room to move around. At that time it was cool and I was still concerned about her being warm enough, so I turned off all the vents to that room and blocked air return from under the doors. Now that it is summer (and I live in Louisiana) our days have already gotten to 100, and yesterday I looked at the temp in that room and it was 96! So no worries there!
:)

MagnetFencing
06-04-2011, 08:29 AM
I would coninue to feed regular food amounts and be sure to add foods that the wilds are eating. Branches,seed pods, dandilion greens, etc. Whatever is in their natural diet in the area. I even include the Rodent blocks or HHB or whatever you are using. Once the squirrel is no longer in the cage and has left the enclosure I never put food in the cage with the door left open. That will draw other squirrels that will fight with yours or will draw predators in the cage. Place the food in a location near a tree so it will not be ambushed while it eats. At first they are a little goofy and don't pay as much attention but quickly catch on. Mosquitos can be a danger. I have an outdoor fan that I put out on my cages that helps with a breeze so the mosquitos aren't as bad. I would have to ask for help with what others do about mosquitos. I wish I had a better system to keep mosquitos away. Predators would include hawks, fox, cats, dogs, raccoons and skunks. All will kill squirrels to eat or to take their food from them. I would also lock the cage doors. I use those snap bolt locks or hook locks that lock with a spring. Most predators can open cage doors that are not locked. Or use a regular key type lock. I don't depend on twist ties or zip ties. Predators can chew through those in nothing flat. I put Revolution on my squirrels when I put them in the outdoor release cages. This will keep them flea, tick and mite free for at least 1 month. You can re-apply upon release. I leave mine out in the release cages for 2-3 weeks just to get use to natural night, day, sights and sounds. Then I open a small door I installed that only a squirrel sized animal can get in. When I open the door I prop a branch right beside the door to let the squirrels climb down to the ground as they come out. BTW the size of the release door is about the size of an apple or orange. Be sure to put bowls and bottles for water in the cage. Also you may need to ant proof the food by placing the feeding dishes in a shallow pan of water.
Please feel free to ask all the questions you need to in order to feel comfortable and have a safe release. :wave123

Marty, Licensed Maryland Master Wildlife Rehibilitator

Marty thank you so much for this info. SO helpful, I just have one or two follow up (clarifications) if you don't mind.

*So in the morning I would remove the food from the cage altogether?

*She is already in a squirrel box (we attached it to the outside of the indoor cage with access through one of the feeding windows) and is very used to going in there to sleep. If a predator got in her cage (dug under?) would she be safe in the box?

*When you say door, you mean the door I would use to go in? I wasn't planning on actually letting her out that door, I was planning on the little hole idea. Help me understand what I'm missing on the open door.

*When we move her outside, we do not let her out for about 2 weeks? Is this right? Then make the hole? I had planned on moving the entire indoor cage outside for the first week (inside the big cage) then letting her out into the big cage at some point - I was thinking a week, but that may be too long as she is very used to having run of a 15'x12' room. She can open the feeding doors herself on her indoor cage, so we have fastened them shut for now, but I'm wondering if when we put her outside I should unfasten them so when she's feeling brave enough she will go out herself.

I have more, but today has already started and I'm off to the races - almost literally (cycling). :)

Again, thank you so much for your help. SO valuable.

:)
terry

MagnetFencing
06-04-2011, 08:33 AM
My Basic Release: ~ 16 weeks old ~

1. At 4 months old I place my squirrel(s) outside in the safe release cage
2. I continue to feed them as I did inside, but now I include more wild food
3. I spend time with the squirrels during the 1st week to get them adjusted
4. During the 2nd week I start to process of FEED & LEAVE - no CONTACT
5. They remain in the outside release cage for at least 30 days (some more)
6. When I open the door for them to leave I remain around for a short while
7. I securely lock them in their cage every night IF they return home to sleep
8. I always make sure to leave food and fresh water while they are returning


... Release Cage should include:
Nest Box
Food Bowls
Water Bottle
Covering for Top
Branches for Climbing

Thank you Rhap, for these clear instructions. If you could scan my follow up questions to Marty I would appreciate any other direction from you. Again, "the door" is not really clear to me. I have lots of doors! lol I have the inside cage which has a door, and I have the outside cage with has a door, and a future "hole" door for the squirrel to "sneak out" lol.

How do I know if she is returning?

THANK YOU!!

Rhapsody
06-04-2011, 10:47 AM
Thank you Rhap, for these clear instructions. If you could scan my follow up questions to Marty I would appreciate any other direction from you. Again, "the door" is not really clear to me. I have lots of doors! lol I have the inside cage which has a door, and I have the outside cage with has a door, and a future "hole" door for the squirrel to "sneak out" lol.

How do I know if she is returning?

THANK YOU!!1st the "DOOR ISSUE" - I am referring to opening the door the squirrel will use to finally leave the release cage from after their rehabilitation is over (that which btw) is the same door the squirrel will cont' to use to come and go into their cage from.....

2nd - You will know she is returning by checking to see IF she is in her bed the last 30 minutes before it gets dark, by checking her water level, by checking the food you have been leaving out for her and the BEST WAY of all to see if She is Returning...... SEE HER with YOUR OWN EYES!!

UDoWhat
06-04-2011, 12:45 PM
Marty thank you so much for this info. SO helpful, I just have one or two follow up (clarifications) if you don't mind.

*So in the morning I would remove the food from the cage altogether?

*She is already in a squirrel box (we attached it to the outside of the indoor cage with access through one of the feeding windows) and is very used to going in there to sleep. If a predator got in her cage (dug under?) would she be safe in the box?

*When you say door, you mean the door I would use to go in? I wasn't planning on actually letting her out that door, I was planning on the little hole idea. Help me understand what I'm missing on the open door.

*When we move her outside, we do not let her out for about 2 weeks? Is this right? Then make the hole? I had planned on moving the entire indoor cage outside for the first week (inside the big cage) then letting her out into the big cage at some point - I was thinking a week, but that may be too long as she is very used to having run of a 15'x12' room. She can open the feeding doors herself on her indoor cage, so we have fastened them shut for now, but I'm wondering if when we put her outside I should unfasten them so when she's feeling brave enough she will go out herself.

I have more, but today has already started and I'm off to the races - almost literally (cycling). :)

Again, thank you so much for your help. SO valuable.

:)
terry
:wave123 I'll try to answer for you.
*So in the morning I would remove the food from the cage altogether? Yes, for sure. However, once the release door that she will be going in and out of is opened, I don't put food inside the cage at all. Nothing to attract unwanted visitors. I even clean out nestbox stashes while the squirrel is out exploring so ants, flies, mice , and other unwanted creatures aren't trying to get in the nestbox. You can feed away from the release cage at a different location nearby ,perhaps.
*She is already in a squirrel box (we attached it to the outside of the indoor cage with access through one of the feeding windows) and is very used to going in there to sleep. If a predator got in her cage (dug under?) would she be safe in the box?
No. I hate to say it but no. She could be trapped. My outdoor cages are off the ground and have 1/2x1/2 attached double wire bottoms. I'll have to think about how to make or modify your box/cage for safety.
*When you say door, you mean the door I would use to go in? I wasn't planning on actually letting her out that door, I was planning on the little hole idea. Help me understand what I'm missing on the open door.
Yes the little door/hole for releasing, is what I was referring to. I would make a small wire door for it if you can, in case you need to close it for some reason. Hubby has attached wire doors over my small release doors/holes with "J" clips (he said) and spring loaded hook locks to keep them closed if I need to close them after release is completed or for some other reason.
*When we move her outside, we do not let her out for about 2 weeks? Is this right? Then make the hole? I had planned on moving the entire indoor cage outside for the first week (inside the big cage) then letting her out into the big cage at some point - I was thinking a week, but that may be too long as she is very used to having run of a 15'x12' room. She can open the feeding doors herself on her indoor cage, so we have fastened them shut for now, but I'm wondering if when we put her outside I should unfasten them so when she's feeling brave enough she will go out herself.
I think you have a good plan in moving the indoor cage into the outside cage. You do not have to do 2 weeks. I always have multiples and 3 or more outside release cages going all the time. I let stay 10 days to 2 weeks just because that works for me. I have noticed that most here let their squirrels out with supervision for a few hours a day and lock at night. I like that method and will try to do it this year with mine. However, I have multiples and hours of supervision not always easy. When you say unfasten the feeding doors on the inside cage you mean when it is in the outdoor enclosure, Right? I think that is a good idea. She could explore the outdoor cage on her own, as she wants. Then return as she wants. I would shorten the time to a week in total if you like. No need for her to be out for 2 weeks in small area. BTW lots of perfect release advice from many others on this thread. I am going to "bookmark" it. Thanks all I will use some of this advice myself this year.
Hope I helped . Please ask questions as you need to.

Marty